Virgil Ortiz Rolls Out Indigenous Imprints™ Collection

Aqua Hospitality Carpets Summer 2011 features the Indigenous Imprints™ collection created by Virgil Ortiz.

Ortiz, a prolific designer of pottery, jewelry and fashion, combines the artistic traditions of his native Cochiti Pueblo ancestors with bold and contemporary concepts. Consisting of twenty unique patterns, his design concepts balance the contemporary and the traditional for guest rooms, corridors and public spaces.

Scroll down to see his carpet designs and read his interview with Aqua Hospitality.

Tell us a little about your background and why you make pottery?
I grew up on the Cochiti Pueblo reservation in New Mexico where I helped my family make pottery, never really knowing it was an art form because it was always around.

Is there a particular style of work you prefer?
All the pottery I create is a revival of the older pieces my ancestors made from the 1800’s found in Cochiti. The designs are all based on social commentary and I use traditional methods and materials to create the pottery. They all have very special meanings taken from both nature and ceremonial looks from the different families on the reservation.

Who and what inspires you?
Both of my parents, their families and the entire Pueblo people of Cochiti inspires me. I collect my grandmothers’ pottery from auctions and use these historic pieces as my inspiration. The two most important elements of Pueblo life are our language and our art.

Where is your favorite place to go for creativity?
On the Pueblo. I am a visual person and I remember everything I see. From the Pueblo I can incorporate my designs into many different mediums, my clothing and accessories, pottery and now interior finishes.

How would you best describe yourself?
Very family oriented. Everything I do is to help the children on the reservation. Everything comes full circle; everything comes back to the pottery, to the language, to art, to kids. I want to pass on the family traditions to the next generation and keep it alive.

What is one of you fondest memories?
Growing up we would all go as a family to collect the materials and supplies needed to create the pottery. It was fun and everyone enjoyed searching for the right items. We still do that today and everyone enjoys helping me find the appropriate materials to create the pottery.

Name one life lesson you have learned?
To keep our family traditions alive and to give the children the backbone to be able to go out and do whatever they want.

What legacy would you like to leave for the next generation?
Pottery making and our ceremonial ways on how you are supposed to do things in our culture.

Best gift you ever received
Pottery made by my grandmother

If you were an animal, what animal would you be?
I believe animals are very intelligent. Our elders give us an animal name when we are born, mine is the badger.

My purpose in life is...
To create opportunities for children in the Pueblo that reflects the legacy of our ancestors while promoting a global awareness of the Pueblo culture.

A typical day looks like...?
No rest!

Best book you have recently read?
I love all types of books but my favorite is fiction. The fictional stories take me to another place that I typically would not go. It also helps me to teach the children how to take their minds to a different place. It helps with creativity.

Best movie you have seen?
I am a movie buff! Again I like the fiction movies. I study them because eventually I would like to produce a movie.

Do you have any guilty pleasures?
Traveling so I can see what is not on the reservation. Georgia Sweet Tea!

What do you consider a “hot “ trend?
Hot trends are disposable. Being native, we respect everything living and I use nature a lot because it’s traditional and the designs last forever.

Click here to view the entire collection.

Virgil Ortiz's Vertigo

Virgil Ortiz's latest exhibit, Vertigo, opened last week at the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture in Santa Fe (just fyi, I'm no longer living in Santa Fe, and I'm crushed that I can't attend every opening! Sadtimes. BUT, since I will be in Santa Fe for their annual Indian Market, I will still get to check out the show. Awesome.).

About Vertigo (Ortiz always has the best one-word show names, I swear), the Museum press release explained,

The past receives a current voice with the newest figurative work of Virgil Ortiz. With pieces whose scale and style are both unprecedented, the Vertigo series infuses cultural understanding and historic research. Just as his ancestors used clay to comment on their lives and experiences; Ortiz does the same and adds a fresh element and spin by enlisting family members to contribute their respective works in this spectacular series.

Inspired by Ben Wittick’s famous photograph, circa 1880, Ortiz recreates the scene using a photograph of the Charles Bridge he took during a visit to Prague, Czech Republic in 1999.

“When I walked up to the Charles Bridge, it reminded me of that photo from the Clay People book and I knew someday I would recreate it.” – Virgil Ortiz

The original Wittick photo, and Virgil Ortiz's version.

So if you plan on checking it out, here's the dish:

WHAT: “Vertigo: A Spin on Tradition ~ Reviving the Past” with Virgil Ortiz and family members

WHEN: Monday August 1st through September 5th, 2011

WHERE: Museum of Indian Arts & Culture | 710 Camino Lejo, Museum Hill off Old Santa Fe Trail, Santa Fe New Mexico. Phone: 505.476.1250

“There is no better illustration from an artist who constantly challenges his abilities to mold clay into forms never imagined. The Vertigo series comes full circle and ends with the traditional “Mono” at this point in time.” – Robert Gallegos, Art Dealer - Historian


ALSO: Keep your eyes open for Ortiz's collaboration with Aqua Hospitality Carpets.

Virgil Ortiz Scarves

Click here for the latest from Virgil Ortiz.

Behind-the-Scenes Photo Shoot

Yesterday I went to an amazing photo shoot.

Jewelry designer Wabanoonkwe Cameron-Hernandez of Turquoise Soul invited me to meet up with her for a behind-the-scene look at her latest stuff, and of course I jumped at the opportunity.  Designers Sho Sho Esquiro and Virgil Ortiz were also bringing their gear.

Photographer Thosh Collins was shooting, and Wabanoonkwe’s younger sister Miigwaans was modeling, along with Winnipeg-based model Amberae Wood and Navajo ‘mixing legend’ Matt Manymules (aka DJ Young Native).

I love doing ‘behind-the-scenes’ posts, because it gives readers a chance to see all of the effort that goes into Native fashion (and fashion in general).  Not only is there a lot of prep work, but when the ball actually gets rolling, it’s a lot more work!

What really stuck out for me was the fact that this shoot was such an awesome collaboration – everyone pitched in where they could (as you’ll see in the pictures below).  So, a model became an assistant, a designer became a hairstylist, a photographer became a set designer, and a DJ became a model. But it was all so natural.  When it comes to this world, you have to wear many hats.  And this crew does it well.

You’ve probably heard me say this before, but I know I don’t say it enough – I have so much respect for Native fashion designers.

Not only do they produce objects that are aesthetically cool, but they also have amazing skills in producing items that look good on the body (and you know all of us have different body shapes!) and the clothes and jewelry look great in motion (to produce something that looks good when it moves requires an intimate understanding of movement).  This takes a unique combination of talents acquired through years of experience, trial and error, and taking risks when it comes to creativity.

In addition, these guys (and gals!) spend hours upon hours designing this stuff, then, when a collection is complete they spend hours upon hours prepping for fashion shows and getting models ready for photoshoots.  THEN, they spend hours upon hours selling their work at events like the Gathering of Nations (this weekend in Albuquerque!).  Thank goodness awesome individuals exist who step up and support each other with collabs like this.

Below are the sneak peek images. It is important to note that these are amateur/candid shots. Once you see Thosh's photos, you will be blown away at the sheer talent that this guy has. In addition, I have so much respect for the models. It was cold and windy, and it was a long day of switching locations. They never complained, and they helped out a great deal (all the while keeping a fun and playful attitude while they were pinned, dressed, and had their hair and make-up done and re-done). They rocked out the gear with great poses and positive energy, and I can't wait to see the final images.

(Miigwaans wears a red Virgil Ortiz dress at scenic Tent Rocks National Monument)

(Thosh shoots Miigwaans in a Cochiti No-Trespassing Zone)

(On location - hiking to great sites and dodging cow patties)

(Thosh giving direction)

(Matt practices his Magnum look, while Wabanoonkwe styles Amberae's hair)

(And on to the lashes! Insider glue secrets revealed. We all refuel with coffee. This was about 5 hours into the shoot.)

(Supplies)

(Matt rocks the Sho Sho zipper hoodie and beaded cap)

(Sho Sho gear)

(Loooong Turquoise Soul Indian Bling)

(Great shoots are all about the right photographer, the right designer, and the right model getting the right angles, the right lighting, and the right background)

(Amberae with a purple jacket by Sho Sho and white Turquoise Soul beaded earrings)

(Virgil Ortiz fixes up model Amberae while the rest of the crew helps out)

 

If you're in the ABQ region for GON, check out the upcoming fashion show featuring the designs of Sho Sho Esquiro and Wabanoonkwe Cameron-Hernandez!:

Video | Virgil Ortiz Scarves

Check out Cochiti fashion designer Virgil Ortiz's website for latest offers. His latest lines include Made In Native America T-shirts and Art + Identity Silk Scarves

Virgil Ortiz Scarves from Major FX on Vimeo.

Virgil Ortiz's Website Gets a Facelift

Virgil Ortiz's website gets a facelift. Check it out, shop around, get a free tote. Men's and women's shirts go for $49-$96, and silk scarves sell for $250-$400.

For previous posts on Ortiz, click here.

Native Peoples: Native Fashion On The Cover

If you haven't caught it yet, jeweler Kenneth Johnson is on the Sept/Oct cover of Native Peoples Magazine, wearing clothes by Cochiti fashion designer Virgil Ortiz.


ON THE COVER
Jeweler Kenneth Johnson (Muscogee/Seminole) is one of a handful of notable contemporary Native jewelers producing cutting-edge rings and other forms of jewelry. See related story p. 32. Photo and styling by Virgil Ortiz (Cochiti Pueblo), best known for his outstanding works in pottery and fashion (see “Galleries,” this issue). Kenneth is wearing the 2010 VO Signature T-Shirt by Virgil Ortiz. www.virgilortiz.com.

Native designers are making their mark on the runway

Check it out~! An article in New Mexico Business Weekly by Megan Kamerick!:

Native designers are making their mark on the runway
Fashioning an aesthetic
New Mexico Business Weekly - by Megan Kamerick NMBW Staff


Penny Singer is settling in for the duration. The mini-fridge is stocked, her studio is meticulously organized and the radio is going.

It’s 10 days before the Santa Fe Indian Market. Singer, who is Diné, is one of hundreds of artists prepping for one of the most prestigious North American indigenous art shows in the country.

Singer is among a group of American Indian designers whose influence is growing in the mainstream fashion world. She anticipates selling all the jackets, bags and shirts in her small Albuquerque studio at the market, even in the recession, because of her loyal client base. Singer incorporates images of corn stalks, mountains and goats onto her textiles of velvet, wool and cotton.

“I’m bringing Native clothing into a contemporary market to where it’s worn, where it’s wearable art,” she said.

Interest in indigenous design manifests itself regularly on the world’s fashion runways, but American Indian designers are doing more these days than inspiring the Ralph Laurens of the world. They are carving out reputations with styles drawn from their own traditions and larger cultural influences.

At least three Native designers participated in New York Fashion Week in 2009: Dorothy Grant (Haida), Virgil Ortiz (Cochiti Pueblo) and Patricia Michaels (Taos Pueblo). Ortiz is also collaborating with mainstream fashion mogul Donna Karan. He will launch a carpet line called Indigenous Imprints this fall focusing on high-end and boutique hotel clients.

It’s part of a huge transition taking place in American Indian art, said Shelby Tisdale, who curated two Native Couture shows at the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture in Santa Fe last year. But the definition of “Native art” is always evolving, she added.

Storytelling with clothing
Fashion is a form of communication, said Jessica Metcalfe, and American Indian designers are continuing to tell their stories.

Metcalfe is an academic whose blog, Beyond Buckskin, explores American Indian fashion design.

“It’s also an awesome way of doing cross-cultural education, because people love to go to fashion shows,” she added.

The interest in American Indian design probably started at first contact with the Europeans, she said. But many mark the 1940s as the beginning of contemporary American Indian fashion. Couturiers including Lloyd Kiva New, who opened a boutique in Scottsdale, Ariz., in 1946, began designing clothing for regional and national markets.

New helped found the Institute of American Indian Arts in Santa Fe, where many designers studied. Teachers like Kimberley “Wendy” Ponca (Osage) encouraged students to experiment with different fabrics and designs, Tisdale said.

That’s where Pilar Agoyo discovered textiles. Agoyo (Ohkay Owingeh/Cochiti/Kewa pueblos) is a regular at the Indian Market clothing contest. She calls her style “rock goth punk and a little risqué.” Many of her works feature leather and vinyl.

Agoyo was raised in a family of pottery artists, and some of her designs are reminiscent of pottery. Then again, some are just fun, like the dress she made out of Pokemon cards.

Metcalfe speaks enthusiastically about a dress with huge silver wings that Agoyo had in a show earlier this year. Her work sells for between $60 and $2,000.

“It’s more art-to-wear than fashion,” Agoyo said. “Fabric is like clay. It has its own mind and will do what it wants to do, and sometimes it doesn’t want to be a shirt.”

Her primary income comes from her costuming for films, freeing up her wilder impulses for her own designs. Her day job also gives her ideas, such as the line of T-shirts she unveiled earlier this year after making T-shirts for Megan Fox’s character in the film “Passion Play.”

Reaching the masses
The jewelry of the Tsosie-Gaussoin family has long been featured on fashion runways, but the artists are now branching into clothing design. Their “Axiom” show, opening at the Poeh Museum before Indian Market, will feature several dresses designed by brothers Wayne Nez and David and their sister, Tazbah.

David said they wanted to better accentuate their very nontraditional jewelry, such as a necklace made of steel pipe.

“I guess that’s the cool thing about being a crossover fashion designer,” David said. “We’re used to working with metal and different materials, and we don’t limit ourselves.”


That freedom is what drew Patricia Michaels to fashion design. She uses natural fibers, especially silk, to express a passion for nature.

“I try to make my garments very fluid and flowing and gentle, so the more compassionate part of our culture is very much alive in the cut,” she said. “I try to make each garment have a story behind it, so they actually are healing to give the person strength and a sense of calmness and beauty inside the garment.”

Michaels has couture pieces that can cost as much as $10,000. But the recession has prompted her to do more accessories, like scarves, that are more likely to sell when people have less to spend.

Virgil Ortiz is among the most sought-after American Indian designers these days. His stated goal is to “take Native fashion to the next level,” and many say that’s exactly what he’s doing.

“He pushes the envelope and is always reinventing himself,” said Jamie Way of Shiprock Santa Fe gallery, which will host an opening for Ortiz’s new pottery work, based on the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, just before Indian Market.

Through his line, Indigene, Ortiz creates luxury handbags, accessories, cashmere, T-shirts and outerwear with his signature designs of water, sun, wild spinach and what he calls “secret writing.” Like Agoyo, he is launching a line of T-shirts.

Metcalfe sees that as part of artists’ desire to expand price points so more people, particularly American Indians, can buy their designs.

If Isaac Mizrahi can create lines for Target, are Native or indigenous designers far behind?

“It’s not a matter of if, it’s a matter of when,” Metcalfe said. “I think it’s going to happen, and when it happens, I will be really curious to see how people will react to it. Will they see it as cool, or as selling out?”

Events | Fashion at the Santa Fe Indian Market

Ooh! A ton of events are planned for the upcoming Santa Fe Indian Market hosted by SWAIA, whose goal is to bring Native arts to the world by inspiring artistic excellence, fostering education, and creating meaningful partnerships. And I can't wait to pack my bags!

I love attending Indian Market and checking out all the artist booths down at the Plaza, but I also love to check out all the events that occur on the 'edges' of the sanctioned SWAIA booths.

This year, there are many notable Native fashion events going on - in particular, Virgil Ortiz's Made in Native America clothing line debut, the Tsosie-Gaussoin family's Axiom exhibit at the Poeh Museum, Dorothy Grant's collection preview and booth, the Wheelwright Trunk Show, and the SWAIA Native American Clothing Contest.

Also, check out Southwest Flair's August issue to get the latest scoop on Native fashion - it's all online!


About the events:

Virgil Ortiz's MINA line
August 19-22, 2010
Eternity boutique

Virgil Ortiz will debut his Made in Native America (MINA) Signature T-shirt Collection and canvas tote bags during Indian Market, available exclusively at Eternity located at 127 Water St, or at www.virgilortiz.com. He will also have a pottery showing at Shiprock Trading - the REVOLT opening reception will be held Thursday, August 19, from 6-8 P.M.


Axiom: The Tsosie-Gaussoin Family
August 19, 2010, 5-8pm
Poeh Museum

The Poeh Cultural Center and Museum of the Pueblo of Pojoaque proudly presents its Annual Indian Market Exhibition: AXIOM: Connie Tsosie Gaussoin, David Gaussoin, Wayne Gaussoin, and Robert Dale Tsosie. The exhibit will feature jewelry, clothing designs, paintings, digital media and sculpture. The Opening Reception is Thursday, August 19, 2010 from 5:00 to 8:00 PM and includes Inuit Throat Singers, Maori Dancers, and Tsimshian Singers and fashion show! The exhibit will be open through November 20, 2010.



Dorothy Grant Collection Preview and Booth
August 19-22, 2010
Santa Fe

Dorothy Grant will have a booth down at the plaza (747 LIN-E), featuring Haida couture, sportswear, and accessories for men and women. You can also preview the collection at Hotel Plaza Real, August 19-20, from 1 to 5pm each day. For more information go to dorothygrant.com



Art-for Wear Trunk Show
August 20, 2010, 10:30am-12:30pm
Wheelwright Museum

The Wheelwright Museum's annual Indian Market Trunk Show is back by popular demand. They will host five Native American designers participating in this year's Art-for-Wear event - Featuring exquisite designs by Patricia Michaels, Pilar Agoyo, Penny Singer, Teri Greeves, Margaret Roach Wheeler, and TahNibaa Naat'aanii.


The SWAIA Native American Clothing Contest
Sunday, August 22, 2010 9am-12pm
Santa Fe Plaza, Downtown Santa Fe

Among the many cherished traditions at the Santa Fe Indian Market, the Native American Clothing Contest (NACC) is one of the most beloved and anticipated events. For over twenty years, the NACC has been the most photographed event at the Santa Fe Indian Market. The contest includes categories for traditional and contemporary Native American fashions, features children and adult participants, and awards prizes in over 20 categories.


(A dress by Pilar Agoyo at the SWAIA Native American Clothing Contest)

Video | Virgil Ortiz's Contortionista

Virgil Ortiz is one of those extraordinarily multi-talented artist/geniuses whose work consistently blows my mind. Whenever I see something new from him, I can recognize his artistic touch - it is familiar - yet it is completely new and exciting.

Along with fashion design, Ortiz also creates pottery and clay figures, and his latest gallery opening was last March during the Heard Indian Market. I missed it, however, I was happy to come across this video of his show, Contortionista: VO Cirque Performers, which was held at King Galleries in Scottsdale, AZ.

Contortionista from Virgil Ortiz on Vimeo.

Virgil Ortiz has taken inspiration from the late 1800s Munos figures of Cochiti Pueblo which depicted Southwestern traveling circus sideshow acts. Ortiz's pieces tumble and twist together - they seem to defy gravity as they rise above the ground, taking flight to the ceilings and twirling in mid-air. Ortiz delivers - bringing his Cirque Performers to the center ring in an unexpected exhibition.


You can view images of the individual pieces at the King Galleries website.

For more about Ortiz, watch this brief video:

Virgil Ortiz USA Artists from Virgil Ortiz on Vimeo.

Designer Profile | Virgil Ortiz

Virgil Ortiz
Cochiti Pueblo

Designer Virgil Ortiz comes from a well-known family of potters, and his first form of artistic expression was in clay. He is an artist whose work defies easy definition: in addition to being a ceramicist, he is also a sculptor, jeweler, painter, and fashion designer. “The thought has never crossed my mind to be anything other than an artist and fashion designer. Art is in my blood,” says Ortiz. “I want to take Native fashion to the next level.”


In late 2002, New York designer Donna Karan attended the Santa Fe Indian Market and met Ortiz. The two collaborated to create a line that featured Karan’s silhouettes and Ortiz’s fabrics decorated with Pueblo designs, such as the wild spinach, water, clouds, and fertility symbols of the Southwest. With this collaboration, Ortiz’s pottery art morphed onto the figures of runway models and transformed into haute couture.


“The main difference in moving from clay to fabric,” Ortiz says, “was taking on a larger scale,” meaning his audience would be many and different from those who know his clay figures. Ortiz felt that taking traditional Pueblo symbols and printing them on nontraditional canvases would require adaptation so as not to lose their sense of origin. His designs are a captivating balance between the provocative, edgy, and traditional.


Visit Ortiz's website at virgilortiz.com