Lots happening in the Beyond Buckskin area of interests, so I thought I'd do a round up of some interesting articles and links - click away!
Native Elegance Hits Runway: A review of a Rapid City runway show featuring designs by Darlene Perkins, Mildred Carpenter, and Danita Strawberry. Models and designers from Indian country makin South Dakota look sexy!
Crossing Generations: Blogger Miss Mondo highlights Maori fashion designers Keri Wanoa and Hemi Sundgren, the brains behind WHIRI fashion. Miss Mondo is basically the Maori version of Beyond Buckskin, so of course I am an avid reader/follower! (but not in a creepy way!)
The Ephemerals: An all-female Aboriginal collective of artists and curators, the Ephemerals critique the current Tribal Trend and encourage college students to take a deeper look at the cultural implications of Fall's most important trends.
The Racial Construction of Preppiness, part II: The fierce ladies over at Threadbared take a look at a group of young urban males who appropriate and re-mix (and re-fashion) the Americana image constructed by designer Ralph Lauren. That's right, 'Polo low lifes'. Not specifically Native-focused, but a good article on the construction and reconstruction of identity, culture, and class. Super sick.
Futurist Giorgio Sant' Angelo, An Hommage: A model's perspective on Giorgio Sant Angelo, a designer whose vibrant Indigenous-inspired couture was all the rage in the 1970s. He made the Tribal Trend très chic by garbing celebrities such as Zsa Zsa Gabor, Diana Ross, and the Jaggers. (the Jaggers!)
Colorful Rooster Feathers Being Used As Hair Accessories: A creepy article about how one salon is taking the Feather Extensions Trend "a step further" by adding Native hair to the feather look. Get this, "because it's so hard to get rooster feathers," they started incorporating American Indian hair ("because of its strength"). Yikes! Using American Indian hair, they say, offers a more animal-friendly alternative. Scalps anyone?
Style Show Highlights Traditional Dress: The Cherokee Phoenix online news source reviewed a recent Southeastern-Indian fashion show held in Tahlequah. Models of all ages wore clothing from a period ranging from 900 A.D. to the present. Photo highlights include a full-length turkey-feather cape and this pretty Seminole style skirt (pictured above).
Dmonic Intent made up of three sisters Maxine Wooldridge, Samara Wooldridge and Khris Leach earned first place in the Couture section of the 2011 Miromoda Fashion Design Awards held over the long weekend in Wellington with their collection entitled Black Sheep, they were also named runners-up in the Established section for their collection The Alchemist.
This family affair are three years into the fashion game and have gained a cult like following for their brand DMONIC INTENT. This year at ANZFW 2011 will be their debut with a quirky spin on sustainable garments and ultra cool jewellery. As designers Dmonic Intent are inspired by mystery, darkness and punk icons from the 80's and 90's — a little bit rock and most definitely playful describes their jewellery line mixed with Zips recycled into bracelets, belts and headbands while the zip stoppers are used to create linkable necklaces and cuffs.
Each season they seem to push themselves further to create and experiment with the beautiful, dark, and edgy. Their individuality will see this up and coming label be one of New Zealand's Hottest showcases at ANZFW 2011.
I love what Miromoda is doing - each year they host a competition in which Maori designers compete in various categories to win an opportunity to show at New Zealand Fashion Week. It is a way of ensuring that Maori designers are included in NZFW, and that they are the best of the best for that year. Below is an article that discusses the recent competition (which wrapped up at the beginning of June).
(Adrienne Whitewood (far right) Miromoda 2011 Overall Winner and winner of the Established section with her collection Te Aho Tapu)
The Miromoda Maori Fashion Design Award winners and runners up who will showcase at NZ Fashion Week in August have been announced.
Official Results were: - Established and Overall winner: Adrienne Whitewood (rotorua); Runners Up D’monic Intent (Auckland) - Emerging Winner: Tara Warren (Brisbane) - Haute Couture: D’monic Intent (Auckland) - Tee Shirt: Kereama Taepa (Rotorua), Tai Kerekere (Wellington)
The 2010 Miromoda showcase at NZFW was voted best show of the week by Dominion Post Fashion Editor, Carolyn Enting and reported as the most photographed show by International media.
Miromoda Co-founder Ata Te Kanawa says the echelon for which Maori fashion designers can aspire to in the competition is the very rare and special opportunity to show at NZ Fashion Week and this year an additional special Miromoda show will be part of the REAL New Zealand Festival that runs alongside the 2011 Rugby World Cup in late September. She sees the role of Miromoda is “to connect the talent with the catwalk and make it happen.”
After winning the established section with her collection Te Aho Tapu (The Sacred Thread), Adrienne Whitewood of Rotorua was also named Overall Winner which will see her under the mentorship of Sydney based Miromoda Co Founder, Rex Turnbull, attend Australia Fashion Week and be guided and mentored in fashion business by Jack Yan, Publishing Editor of International Fashion magazine Lucire. Yan also made up the Miromoda panel of three judges.
Having debuted last year as a runner up in the 2010 Miromoda Emerging section, Whitehood’s 2011 entry was completely different which impressed the judging panel, not only for her tailored execution of her garments but her passion behind the research and dialogue of concept.
Executive Officer at Fashion Industry New Zealand (FINZ), Mapihi Opai, said “It’s always a challenge to draw inspiration from a traditional indigenous source and create contemporary garments that appeal to a fashion audience, but Adrienne Whitewood succeeded in doing that with her three-piece collection Te Aho Tapu; The Sacred Thread.
“She demonstrated creativity and the ability to push a design concept beyond literal translation, combining strong construction techniques and a good understanding of the commercial environment to achieve her goal of producing slow-fashion with an edge.
“Adrienne Whitewood is a rising talent and name to watch in the future.”
In line with extraordinary aspects of the Awards, Auckland label, D’monic Intent made up of three sisters, Maxine Wooldridge, Samara Wooldridge and Khris Leach, earned first place in the Haute Couture section with their collection entitled Black Sheep.
They were also named runners up in the Established section for their The Alchemist collection. The first time entrants to the Miromoda Fashion Design Competition were ecstatic with their double whammy win and their opportunity to debut at NZ Fashion Week.
Miromoda’s first-ever international entrant came in the form of Tara Warren from Brisbane who was clearly delighted her knitted Menswear collection entitled ‘Childhood memories’ won the Emerging section. Perhaps one of her biggest compliments was that all five male models commented they would ‘easily’ wear the knitted pants and comfortable fitting tops with matching cardigans.
A former Fashion Design student of Auckland’s AUT, Tara will also make her way to Auckland in late August for NZ Fashion Week.
The first equal winning entry in the Tee Shirt placement competition by Kereama Taepa, a photographic tutor at Waiariki Polytechnic in Rotorua left judges aghast.“I was initially a bit puzzled, then realised with shock, this entry could be a whole new genre in NZ fashion, it’s mind boggling and extremely innovative”, said Miromoda representative on the judging panel, Rex Turnbull.
A technique that Taepa has coined HAKAR because it incorporates the letters A and R the acronym for ‘Augmented Reality’ sees a tee shirt print convert to another (possibly moving) image when viewed through a webcam that detects a marker in the print design. Taepa cleverly incorporated a haka to make the tee shirt interactive as was demonstrated by top Wellington model Alistair Boyd.
An example of this technology can be viewed below.
Of the 19 fashion design finalists, Miromoda organisers were extremely pleased with the Project Runway styled competition that runs throughout the day and contracts up to 15 local Maori models, many of who are novices.
“It’s very exciting to see what unfolds from the fashion designer’s entries of sketches on paper to the actual garments, then seeing them on the models who are every bit catwalk worthy,” says Project Coordinator Terina Cowan.
Enthusiasm from the models alone has triggered the potential for Miromoda Executive to consider establishing an Indigenous Model and Talent Agency. “It makes sense, Miromoda has runs on the board with our catwalk shows, our brand grows significantly every year and we have fantastic support from the models on our own database, so why wouldn’t we?”
The 2011 Miromoda fashion awards competition just wrapped up, and videos from the Maori fashion event are slowly being posted.
Here's one showing Maori fashion designer Johnson Witehira explaining the concept behind one of his designs in the T-Shirt category of the Miromoda Fashion Awards Design.
MIROMODA - The Indigenous Māori Fashion Apparel Board (IMFAB) was founded in 2008, as a non-profit organisation, instituted to advance the quality status of Māori fashion design and to raise its artistic and professional standards. Miromoda also aims to define a code of ethical practices of mutual benefit in public and trade relations and, to promote appreciation of the fashion arts through leadership in high quality, authenticity and aesthetic discernment.
Mission Miromoda is committed to nurturing the development of the Māori fashion industry’s future designers
"Miro" is the technical term for twining muka fibres in traditional Māori weaving. "Moda" is Italian for Fashion.
Maori fashion designers are some of the more exciting designers to follow, and one of my favs is Kiri Nathan, who I've featured before in various posts. Nathan recently participated in the Bridal Fashion Week held at the Auckland Museum where the designer bedecked the dresses with the Korowai, or traditional Maori cloak, which is woven with feathers.
The cloak speaks of a person's honor, dignity and respect. According to the Maori story about Princess Hinemoa and Tutanekai, it is said that out of his great love and respect for her, Tutanekai embraced his lover Hinemoa by placing his Korowai around her. The cloak is therefore a symbol of great value to the Maori people and worn with great pride.
(Silk taffeta with applicae lace, bustier skirt and traditionally woven contemporary korowai in marabou feather)
(Stretch sequin gown, cowl neck and back with traditionally woven contemporary korowai wrap and neckpiece)
(Dress at top: Silk chiffon gown, contemporary korowai all traditionally woven in contemporary medium)
Check out this latest fashion spread featuring Maori designer Kiri Nathan in BlackLOG.
The label Kiri Nathan is a reflection of her Maori and European cultures - Producing gowns of elegance and sophistication supported by feminine fashion-forward glamour collections.
“It is my intention to respectfully draw inspiration from my ancestors and their timeless lessons, and then transition these beautiful crafts into a present form. I pay particular attention to detailing through smocking, pleating, hand appliqué and beading and blend it with traditional raranga (weaving) in contemporary media, particularly Korowai (Maori cloak).I believe in clean cuts, creative and innovative pattern drafting and maximising the versatility of my fabrics" – Kiri Nathan
David K Shields took these images of Taren Cunningham dressed entirely in Kiri Nathan. Hair and make-up by Stacy Lee Ghin.
Miromoda is receiving some well-deserved media coverage of their latest efforts to propel Maori fashion out into the internation fashion world via the New Zealand Fashion Week.
Skip to pages 22-27 to see an awesome spread on Maori fashion in TU MAI Magazine. The issue is available online for free.
As "New Zealand's leading indigenous lifestyle magazine", TU MAI has upheld a commitment to enrich the minds of all New Zealanders through the sharing of stories and issues mostly related to New Zealand's Indigenous culture, but inclusive of others.
TU MAI magazine is a quality, nationally distributed, glossy magazine that re-affirms as well as enlightens and is the ONLY MONTHLY Indigenous magazine on the market.
And here is an interesting video clip of the New Zealand Good Morning tv show featuring the Miromoda competition winners.
I think I should go to New Zealand for the next Miromoda show!....
Adrienne Whitewood Miromoda Emerging Designer winner, Adrienne Whitewood offered a collection that captures the imagination of urban-wear that seemed to take you on a journey’s reminiscent of Arabian Nights.
Velvets come in cocoon-ish wraps and effortless shapes that look comfortable and very wearable.
Colours are dark blues highlighted with shades of russet. Copper jewellery bedecks the wrists and décolletage in thick wire coils.
Linen sheaths, slouchy trousers and muslin fabrics compliment a collection that allowed comfort, style and innovation to co-exist so invitingly.
Kereama Taepa I loved this collection from Urban Maori designer Kereama Taepa. Wit and caricature abound in this collection and welcomed too. Prints are nostalgic of growing up in the eighties and nineties.
The ever-present ‘have a nice day’ face had a make-over with an amusing moko motif.
Does anyone remember the arcade game called ‘Galaga’ that use to clutter the entrance to take-away shops? Prints similar to that archaic game are utilised in neon colours lighten up the side of leggings or wherever applicable it seems.
Denim arrives in cropped shorts with unfinished edges for woman; men’s denim shorts and pants are fitted or straight-cut. An Autobot printed shirt also gets the Maori-ised makeover, and I expect to see young people wondering about, proudly sporting such entertaining and fun street-wear.
Amber Bridgman Dunedinite Amber Bridgeman, with her label Kahuwai excites inspiration Maori mythical super heroes. Her ethos is to give a homely sense to apparel that is authentically made in Aotearoa. Each piece is features indigenous artwork using New Zealand made paints and made from sustainable fabrics. So this collection was embellished with feathers, prints and strong details that aligned itself in-theme.
Merino dresses had versatile additions – wrap-like details that drape across the shoulder like a pashmina, suddenly becomes a train. Colours popped right at you in emerald greens, reds as well as black and white.
Ensembles were usually bi-tonal and prints were inserted at the sides, sleeves and on the back of that train in a repeated motif. The clothes for men had an ease about them, something that just said you could just chuck-on and go.
Male models wore batman masks and unmasked at the end of the runway, posed in haka-like stances with a fearsome pukana. Our man Hunter McLeod was fortunate to take on this task. To the point, Amber Bridgeman’s collection had mana, wearability and poise.
Shona Tawhiao Lastly, Shona Tawhio stood out from the rest with her masterful skills of weaving flax into unique and exquisite sculptures. Tawhio is a fibre artist and an acutely adept one too. Her collection is entitled ‘Te Whiri’ and based on traditional warrior attire.
A spectacular interpretation of a corset and skirt piece was exceptional, finished flawlessly in a black lustre and even more, the corset was held together with steel clasps that continued high finish details.
Armour-like chest plates looked tough as steel and woven head pieces complete a regimented look.
Tawhio is like no other weaver/ fibre artist that I personally have encountered and is one to look out for in future.
Bravo, encore and much credits to Ata Te Kanawa and Rex Turnbull, co-founders of Miromoda, for another successful year. For those who aren’t aware of Miromoda its modus operandi, it is a competition for aspiring New Zealand designers (with Maori ties) and has a similar philosophy to that of ‘Project Runway’.
Miromoda (Miro – The technical word for the twinning of fibre in Maori and Moda – Italian for fashion) when pronounced correctly, is tonal in Maori but has an international awareness about it. So this year exhibits seven designers with collections that are of a high calibre.
Aroha Wikotu – Shikoba Starting off the show was Aroha Wikotu, who won the ‘Established Designer’ section. Her label – Shikoba, meaning feather in American Indian – prides in clothes that speak to an audience that are keen on organic and natural textiles and techniques.
Aroha based her latest collection on shapes that are forgiving and colours that are earthy with the exception of reds and purple-mauves. An urban scope of grey wool-mix tunics, dresses with ties and hooded cropped shawls.
Felt accents with perforations adorn shoulder yolks and appliqué add to the cleverly detailed work that Wikotu is known for. Smart layering of merino polo necks pair wonderfully with dresses, skilfully tailored jackets help brave the winter chill in style.
Prints are nostalgic of the native flora; pohutakawa flowers, flax stems and fantails. All together, this is the consummate collection of a notable designer that also knows what women want.
Ana Hau Ana Hau – winner of the ‘Haute Couture’ section – acquired a lot of positive attention during her showcase.
The first to demonstrate the them of Asian fusion (seen widely throughout this collection) was a brilliantly structured kimono with feathers that trailed down the edge of one lapel, held cinched at the waist with a wide, woven detailed obi belt.
Orient influences ran rife with stunning fabrics; toggle details and technical cuts are tailored to perfection – especially a dress that was made of a sequined fabric that outlined a multitude of sheer circles.
Grace Hobson led the finale in a stunning floor-length dress with an incredible lattice framed wings that would look flawless in a Victoria’s Secret show.
Blaire Archibald Blaire Archibald (a Designer Direction contributor that oversees menswear trends) is the ‘Overall and Emerging Designer Winner’ and named his collection – Matua. His theme has a retrospective angle that takes colours and cuts of the 1940’s and interprets into menswear that is modern and fresh.
Shirts have a quirky take on exaggerated hem lengths with contrast colours of olives mixed with creams, beiges and collar-stands are a tidy and proper. Woollens have that aged appeal.
A sweater that I would like to point out had an embroidered lion on it (below) is one that I could see myself adding to my own wardrobe.
Trousers had a plus-four swagger about them, and paired seamlessly with cowl neck knitted tops. Compliments to Blaire and best wishes – for this was a charismatic collection shrouded dusky neutral tones that had a charming boyish attraction to it.
Keep an eye out for part two in our two part series reviewing the designer collections from Miromoda. Part two includes designers; Amber Bridgman, Kereama Taepa, Shona Tawhiao and Adrienne Whitewood.
The world’s first hand woven haute couture collection will feature at New Zealand Fashion Week.
Te Whiri is Shona Tawhiao’s debut range of military-inspired apparel, under her eponymous label Tawhiao.
"Samurai, Roman, the Masai, and Maori of course. It's totally military warrior woman meets marching girl."
Tawhiao has introduced the plant to haute couture by literally weaving a groundbreaking mix of high fashion that can be nothing but Maori.
Of Ngaiterangi descent from the Bay of Plenty, Tawhiao was among an initial flock of Unitec graduates who helped revitalize the indigenous art form and then turn it into a contemporary practice. Like a true soldier, there are no short cuts to manifesting Tawhiao's concepts.
Harakeke is a Lilly specimen commonly referred to as native flax because of its resourceful fibres.
Before each individual blade of flax fibre is weaved by Tawhiao's hand with military precision, the flax must be grown, harvested and individually prepared.
Tawhiao's decision to merge harakeke with haute couture has fuelled her passion to construct visionary designs that look beyond these shores.
"Everything Japanese is inspirational to me. How an indigenous culture creates a subculture, I think is really cool. Maori don't have that yet."
Tawhiao is one of seven designers to show at NZFW 2010 thanks this year's Miromoda Fashion Design Awards.
Although Te Whiri is Tawhiao's first-ever haute couture collection to be exhibited at an international trade fair, the designer already has an accomplished portfolio of woven work that adorns art galleries, film and television, family homes, schools, meeting houses and hotel lobbies.
She is also a past winner of the Villa Maria Cult-Couture Award and has a garment in the World of Wearable Arts museum.
Tawhiao brings a cultural component to Fashion Week that she says New Zealand has struggled to muster, making the name of her premiere collection – Te Whiri – most fitting.
"Te Whiri is Maori for plait. It's the joining of everything really. I feel very lucky. This is a culmination of all my work that I love so it's pretty exciting."
Alright! So I had a great time looking into New Zealand Maori fashion designers, and I came across this video coverage of the 2009 Westfield Style Pasifika’s fashion show - New Zealand's premier Fashion Awards. It shows the garments of some of the designers I featured this past week, including Amber Bridgman, Charmaine Love, and others (and I must say, Amber Bridgman rocks it out in just about every category). Right now, New Zealand Fashion Week is in full swing, and I look forward to seeing what the Maori designer collective fashion show Miromoda has to offer.
The video below, of a 2009 fashion show, is just a lot of fun to watch. You can watch one of the segments below, but there’s a total of 6 parts that you can view at your own convenience (it’s a total of 60 mins – and totally worth watching the whole thing).
The event website explains that the Awards show is recognized for launching some of New Zealand’s finest fashion design and performance talent, and showcasing its raw and Indigenous style. The show is a mixture of traditional and contemporary fashion, as well as music and dance featuring the country's most exciting Pacific entertainers.
“As always the event attracts a dynamic range of designs from throughout New Zealand, Australia and the Pacific. Each year it never fails to astound with the diversity in backgrounds, ages and nationalities of designers that enter the competition - from young design students through to those with established labels, high schools students through to grandmothers. The show truly is all-inclusive and provides designers with an invaluable platform to showcase their talent.”
The 10 categories of the award show include: (Segment 1): Urban Pasifika Streetwear, and Asia Pasifika, (Segment 2): Painted Body Art, and Pasifika 3-Piece Collection, (Segment 3): Traditionally Inspired, and Pasifika Hero, (Segment 4): Pasifika Menswear, and Pasifika Evening Wear, (Segment 5): Parent and Child, and Pasifika Bridal
Two new categories were introduced in 2003 - Asia Pasifika which reflects the Asian Pacific influences in New Zealand; and the Pasifika Hero category - a broader celebration and acknowledgement of the ‘3rd gender’ so common in the pacific and a part of New Zealand’s gay community.
The third segment was my favorite, so I’ve pasted it below. But I must say that they are all worth checking out:
Earlier this week, I decided to branch out and feature four Maori designers – their work is truly amazing and aesthetically inspiring. This is the last profile, though I hope to feature more in the future. Amber Bridgman is the head designer and director of Kahuwai, a fashion company that produces clothing for all age groups. In fact, it was her adorable baby bibs that made me want to feature her on this site.
Designer Profile | Amber Bridgman
Kahuwai is a fashion label that is Māori owned and operated in the South Island of Aotearoa. Kahuwai provides a blend of unique pieces of Māori inspired clothing and textiles for babies, toddlers, children, women and men.
Head designer Amber Bridgman comes from a diverse and creative background. She has produced, presented and directed within television, radio and film. Maori traditional arts have always been at the foundation of her inspiration throughout her working life and with her designs. She is very proud of her Maori heritage and is an active part of the Maori community.
“As a mother of twins boys, I searched far and wide to find clothing that for babies and toddlers that wasn’t mass produced or made in China, branded with tacky carton motifs and was affordable, after all buying for two soon adds up.”
Thus, after the arrival of twin boys, the idea for Kahuwai was also born.
About her fashion company’s vision, she explained:
We are on the verge of an exciting new era in Aotearoa where by our cultural identity is being defined and lifted to something we are proud of, finally the time has come where our unique cultural art form found only in this part of the Pacific, is ready to adorn the people of the world.
Kahuwai looks to the past to bring our living forms and vibrant language into the present, forefront of the fashion world. It is not just beautiful and bold designs but the essence and spirit to uplift the wearer to inspire them and teach others.
Kahuwai aims is to transform our clothing into original pieces that echo from the teachings of our ancestors, through whaaktauki (proverbs) and moko (designs) Through a high quality and totally unique Maori fashion product including clothing for babies, toddlers and adults and a range of accessories and home-wares.
We at Kahuwai think and believe fashion and spirit go hand in hand, and an expression of one selves and essential to express positive and conscious fashion designs from this strong foundation which is Maori mahi toi.
The History of Kahuwai goes back thousands of years ago to where the artist’s ancestors were weavers and artists in the field of Maori mahi toi (Maori arts and crafts). This was their way of life and survival; it is with that and my love for Maori mahi toi that I carry those skills as a traditional weaver and artist into my label Kahuwai, through a celebration of things Maori and to honor my tipuna.
