Santa Fe Indian Market 2011 Fashion Events

Ok ya'll! It's August! Well, it's been August for over a week now, but I'm just now catching on. And since it's August, that means Beyond Buckskin will be featuring information about the upcoming Santa Fe Indian Market, to be held August 20-21, 2011.

Now, if you know anything about Indian Market, you'll know that the fun stuff isn't just on Saturday and Sunday, it is also on the days preceding the event.

I'm very excited about this year, because there will be fashion-related events on Thursday, Friday, and Sunday (What's that? No Saturday? Well, I'll find some 'fashionable' Indians to spotlight on this blog as a 'Saturday Night Special' of sorts - yea?! **NOTE: I found a Saturday fashion event! See the addition below).

Here's the list of events that you can catch me at!:

WHAT: Opulance Fashion Reception
WHEN: Thursday, August 18, from 5-7pm
WHERE: Museum of Contemporary Native Arts
DEETS: A Fashion event not to be missed. The Tsosie-Gaussoin designers, Connie Tsosie Gaussoin, David Gaussoin, and Wayne Nez Gaussoin collaborate with Orlando Dugi, for a special Pre-NDN market premiere. Experience a rare collection of work, that is an exception to the standards. Enjoy live Models, Art, Music, Food, n Fun. Free event.

WHAT: The Wheelwright Museum's Annual Art for Wear Event
WHEN: Friday, August 19, from 10:30am–12:30pm
WHERE: The Wheelwright Museum
DEETS: The museum hasn't posted an official press release yet, but typically, the Art for Wear showcase hosts some of the premier Native fashion designers. In the past, these designers have included Patricia Michaels, Pilar Agoyo, Penny Singer, Teri Greeves, Margaret Roach Wheeler, and TahNibaa Naat'aanii. The casual atmosphere makes for a great opportunity to meet and talk with the designers (and try on some of the gear!). What's also cool is that the museum's store, the Case Trading Post has some dope Loloma jewelry (pictured above).

WHAT: Fashion Show, Fashion Party, Indian Market 2011
WHEN: Friday, August 19, starting at 7:30pm
WHERE: El Farol, 808 Canyon Road
DEETS: Three Navajo fashion designers get together to host a fashion event during Indian Market. Designers include Martini Couture, Walter Barney, and Consuelo Pascual. Gary Blackchild and guests performing. Sound and Lighting by The Sound Gallery. Model Management Group, ROMERO ENT.

WHAT: Northwest Coast Traditional/Contemporary Fashion Review
WHEN: Saturday, August 20, at 2pm
WHERE: The Sealaska Pavilion in Cathedral Park across from MoCNA
DEETS: The Native nonprofit Sealaska Heritage Institute (SHI) and its founder Sealaska Corporation are planning Native art demonstrations, art sales, dance-and-cultural performances and a high fashion show to spotlight the Tlingit, Haida, and Tsimshian cultures of Southeast Alaska. Hoonah’s Louise Kadinger will showcase Tlingit fur and skin sewing and Sitka’s Nicholas Galanin will feature Tlingit silver works. Contemporary work from Haida designer Dorothy Grant from Vancouver will be featured in a fashion show as well as Kadinger’s sea otter wear. Besides performing six dances, the St. Elias troupe dancers will also showcase their traditional regalia.

WHAT: SWAIA Indian Market Native American Clothing Contest
WHEN: Sunday, August 21, from 9am-12pm.
WHERE: Santa Fe Plaza
DEETS: Indian Market’s Clothing Contest is a visually inspiring competition with over 125 contestants and 18 design categories. Traditional categories will be judged by seven distinguished Native American judges from various tribes as well as a celebrity judge for the Contemporary categories. (And I'll be volunteering!)

If more events pop up, I'll be sure to update this list. Cheerio!

Article | Fashion icon Dorothy Grant closes shop — but her Haida designs will live on

Another story on the closing of Dorothy Grant's shop:

Fashion icon Dorothy Grant closes shop — but her Haida designs will live on
By KAREN GRAM, Vancouver Sun April 21, 2011.

There are few Vancouver-style icons as instantly recognizable as Dorothy Grant.

The Haida artist and fashion designer has built an international following for her Haida-infused couture clothing and accessories lines.

But after 22 years, Grant is hanging up her scissors and turning off her light table, at least metaphorically, since she does it all digitally now.

Click here to read more.

Video | Dorothy Grant at REZ 2011

Check out these videos of Dorothy Grant's fashion show held during the annual Reservation Economic Summit, aka REZ 2011.

Grant shows off her latest designs, which include many samples from her menswear:





And here's a feature video that Grant Studios just uploaded, which gives a behind the scenes look at her studio space and design process.

‘The Raven Takes the World’

I love when I come across random snapshots of Native fashion in books. Here's a picture and schpeel of Dorothy Grant's Haida wedding dress called 'The Raven Takes the World,' found in Totems to Turquoise:

The dress is made of white deer hide and silkscreened with a Haida design. Raven, the Transformer, is depicted holding the four corners of the earth with his human hands. The dress was made in honor of Grant’s mother. The edging of the bodice is beaded with mother-of-pearl beads and glass trade beads, and the three-tiered body has hand-cut fringe.

The dentalium headdress, by Marianne Jones (Haida), was commissioned by Grant in 1994 to match the wedding dress. It was inspired by the headdresses worn by Salish tribes.

Video | From Culture to Couture Fashion Show

This video was shot during the 'From Culture to Couture' gala fashion show in Toronto.

Hosted by celebrated Native actors Adam Beach and Jennifer Podemski, the fashion gala featured work by preeminent Canadian designers Dorothy Grant, D’Arcy Moses, Angela DeMontigny, Pam Baker and Dene Fur Clouds, along with special guest designer Patricia Michaels from New Mexico. The gala event was held during the 2005 Toronto Aboriginal Festival.

The video has some great footage of the fashion designs on the runway as well as interesting interviews with the designers themselves:

Haida Designer Dorothy Grant Closes Shop

Haida Artist Dorothy Grant Closes Shop
By Karen Gram, Vancouver Sun, March 29, 2011

After 22 years of creating exquisite Haida inspired couture, Dorothy Grant is hanging up her scissors and turning off her light table, sort of.

Like others in the fashion industry Grant was hurt by the economic collapse three years ago. Many designers have since closed or adapted. Grant has decided to adapt. Rather than create a full line, she will limit her designs to more affordable accessories such as scarves and bags. She also hopes to teach business to first nations students.

“Just like Raven the Transformer, I am transforming my business and future,” she says in her announcement.

Grant, a Kaigani Haida of the Raven Clan, was a pioneer in the fashion industry taking the motifs from her Haida heritage and applying them to elegantly designed clothing. Like Bill Reid before her, she became an ambassador for First nations. Former prime minister Kim Campbell bought a Dorothy Grant cape which became the backdrop for Campbell’s official portrait. Former governor general Michaëlle Jean also owns a piece as do many Hollywood and Vancouver celebrities.

Grant will still sell her accessories at major native art markets in Canada and the U.S and on her website. Many items from her collections are on sale now at her studio until April 26. The West 6th Ave. studio will close at the end of April.

“Over the past 22 years I’ve been so fortunate to have thousands of clients who are proud to wear my garments,” she says. “They have inspired and encouraged me and for that I am grateful.

“This year will be about staying connected to the creative spirit within me and staying connected to ‘Raven Transformation.’ Thank you all, kindly.”

© Copyright (c) The Vancouver Sun

Read original here.

Santa Fe Indian Market 2010: Part 3 Native American Clothing Contest

It dawned on me that I never posted the pictures from the SWAIA Santa Fe Indian Market Native American Clothing Contest that was held last August in Santa Fe.

Among the many cherished traditions at the Santa Fe Indian Market, the Native American Clothing Contest (NACC) is one of the most beloved and anticipated events. For over twenty years, the NACC has been the most photographed event at the Santa Fe Indian Market. The contest includes categories for traditional and contemporary Native American fashions, features children and adult participants, and awards prizes in over 20 categories.

I volunteered for the event along with my friend Consuelo Pascual. We had a great time checking out all of the behind-the-scenes action - at one point she grabbed me from my post to check out the collection made Racquel Begay (see below). It was fun to do an event with people who have a true passion for traditional and contemporary Native fashion.

My main job was to keep the photographers at bay. Professional, semi-pro, and amateurs all love this event, and the select few of us had to make sure all photographers had a Press Pass before they took any pictures (and that they weren't rude and pushy whilst snapping). All proceeds from the sales of the Press Passes go towards the planning and organizing of future shows. Meanwhile, I was snappin' away like crazy.

(Racquel Begay)

(Collaboration by designers Dallin Maybee and Laura Sheppherd)

(Dress by Patricia Michaels)

(Penny Singer)

(Clothes by Penny Singer and Dorothy Grant)

(Outfit by Dorothy Grant)

(Winning design by Orlando Dugi)

If you ever get the chance, definitely check out the show, it is held every Sunday during Indian Market, starting at 9am.

For other posts about Indian Market, click here to read Santa Fe Indian Market 2010: Part I, and here to read Santa Fe Indian Market 2010: Part 2 Wheelwright Art-for-Wear Showcase.

(all images my own, unless otherwise noted as those by swaia.org)

Santa Fe Indian Market 2010: Part 2 Wheelwright Art-for-Wear Showcase

On Friday, August 20, the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian hosted their annual benefit auction during the Santa Fe Indian Market.

Proceeds from the fundraiser support museum operations and allow the Wheelwright to remain open daily and free to the public.

During the auction preview, potential bidders could also view the Art-for-Wear Designer Showcase, which featured Native couture by top designers.

Back by popular demand, this year's showcase spotlighted Patricia Michaels, Pilar Agoyo, Penny Singer, Dorothy Grant, Teri Greeves, Margaret Roach Wheeler, and TahNibaa Naat'aanii.

I attended the event with my friend Sherry Farrell Racette, and we caught up with designers TahNibaa and Pilar, and volunteers Eslee and Yara.

Here's some pictures from the event!

(Dorothy Grant)

(Margaret Roach Wheeler)

(Dorothy Grant)

(Patricia Michaels)

(Patricia Michaels)

(Patricia Michaels)

(TahNibaa Naat'aanii)

(Terri Greeves)

(Penny Singer purple butterfly vest)

(TahNibaa Naat'aanii scarves)

(Pilar Agoyo pillows)

(Pilar Agoyo t-shirts)

For other posts about Indian Market, click here to read Santa Fe Indian Market 2010: Part I.

Integrating History and Fashion: an interview with Dorothy Grant

Integrating History and Fashion: an interview with Dorothy Grant
By Brittany Luby, Graduate Student at the University of British Columbia/First Nations House of Learning

I first met Dorothy Grant in Vancouver’s Pan Pacific Hotel. I was so nervous – hardly 20 years of age and working the front desk for a high profile business event. I watched Dorothy – then unknown – walk towards me, her coat tails swaying side-to-side with each step. She seemed to dance across the corridor, her coat an able partner. When she reached the desk, I smiled and greeted the raven embroidered onto her collar.

“I like your jacket,” I said.

“Thank you. Dorothy Grant.”

I scanned the table for her name tag. And there it was, “Dorothy Grant of Dorothy Grant Studio.”

“What do you do?” I asked.

“I’m a fashion designer.”


(Feastwear 1994, Haida Wedding Gown)

I learned that Dorothy Grant gained international recognition for Feastwear, a line sported by public figures like Robin Williams, David Suzuki, and Lieutenant Governor Iona Campanella. My excitement grew when I discovered that Dorothy Grant returned to her roots – to Haida myth and histories – to design garments now. Grant excited my inner fashionista – the Chanel-obsessed historian-in-training who ordered both clothing and library books online.

Three years later, I would meet Dorothy Grant again – this time, in her studio on West 6th Avenue in Vancouver, BC. I wanted to know more about her. I wanted to know how (and why) Dorothy, of Haida and Tlingit ancestry, united fashion and Indigenous history. And, I had Active History to offer. Over a cup of green tea, here’s what I learned about the intersections of history and haute couture:

LUBY: What inspired you to use fashion – to use garments as a medium – for sharing Haida art, Haida histories?

GRANT: Haida art has a look of almost universality to it. It has to do with the “Innovation” idea – that art should not be stagnant, but progressive, no matter what the culture. As for Haida people, we have always looked for new mediums to convey Haida Art. This way, we keep ownership of it and no one else can say they did that first. Think of fashion as a bridge between cultures. It’s a way for people of nations –

LUBY: Of different nations?

GRANT: Yes – of nations to understand the art in fashion, rather than a totem pole. It becomes more communal.

LUBY: How do you decide which stories or symbols to share?

GRANT: Sometimes my garments tell a story from really what inspires me to create something. And, sometimes its just esthetics of a design – that I want to put Haida art onto a particular classic style. Like art, fashion should not be stagnant, but be constantly moving to convey a contemporary culture.

LUBY: OK. Contemporary culture. Dorothy, your work has been displayed at museums across North America from the Smithsonian to Vancouver’s Museum of Anthropology. Do you have any fears surrounding museum displays? For example, the conflation of current fashion with Indigenous pasts by your viewers?

GRANT: No, I don’t fear that at all! I think to be collected by museums is a huge honour. Most artists or designers have to die before they are recognized that way! I think it –

LUBY: Museum displays –

GRANT: communicates that innovation that I talk about to the general public and that is good thing.

LUBY: Alright. So, museum displays: a good thing and fantastic exposure. But, what sort of history do you want museum visitors to walk away with? They see your pieces and think – what?


(Dorothy and models, Feastwear 2010)

GRANT: That it’s more about progression of Haida people. They first must see the evolution of Haida art and its people and what we have evolved from. For instance, from about 1850 we were nearly extinct from diseases like small pox. Our population was decimated by 90 % from contact. And there’s so much that can be said for the period between then and now, our contemporary culture. It’s like colonialism, social oppression, and how we have overcome that. Haida people refuse to be victims. Again, it’s about claiming what is rightfully ours.

“And, the history of my people is one of national interest in that we have always been progressive in politics, in art, in language, the protection of our territories (land and water rights). The interest in Haida art is much sought after and carries a lot of weight in the Native art arena. To see my work in museums is a lot about that progression, and evolution. As one collector has said “You’ve come a long way, baby.” Sweet and true.

LUBY: I love that you see museum displays as a statement of evolution. Fashion as a piece de resistance. Now, to a set question: Flare and Toronto’s Globe and Mail have both claimed your garments are a site of intersection. They are a creative space where fashion meets Haida art, myth, history. How do you feel about this claim? And, is this the legacy you’d like to leave?

GRANT: This is true! Yes, this is what I set out to do as part of an earlier vision from 1989, but it still carries forward today.

“Nothing ever remains the same – as for the vision, it still is the same. However, what is changed is the Legacy of Dorothy Grant Vision. I believe it is the impact of my work on other First Nations communities and individuals that matters. In terms of starting something that others can try to emulate or take inspiration from to do their own thing in their own cultural esthetic. This has been extremely – it’s impacted First Nations communities as far away as New Zealand, Maoris. I think that is what I am inspired to do.

“When I am selling to people in shows, in art markets, there is this feeling of pride from my clients that they feel they have arrived, that they are buying something very special. They aspire to buy for themselves or as gifts and they deliver it with pride. This is the most gratifying for me.

“If I have helped to elevate the way a person feels about themselves in my clothing, then I have done my job well.

LUBY: Wow. Dorothy, thank you so much for your time. As a First Nations student, I can say that you’re a real role model for me. A successful business woman and connected to your roots. I hope for as much – to move forward and be true to myself and my history. Meegwetch.

And, with that, I packed away my lap top, savoured the last sip of my tea, and quickly checked the price on Dorothy’s new ribbon scarves. I left an inspired, well-dressed historian-to-be with a story.

Dorothy Grant Vancouver Olympics Fashion Show

Check out these videos of a fashion show featuring Dorothy Grant couture designs during the Vancouver 2010 Olympics -

(note: the videographer seems to be interested in knees and bellies, and misses some of the designs - but the videos offer a nice glimpse of the Vancouver show)

Video | Dorothy Grant on The New Canoe

"Fashion is a reflection of social culture" - Dorothy Grant

Check out this fantastic video from The New Canoe (2008) featuring Haida fashion designer Dorothy Grant. It offers a behind-the-scenes look at her studio and boutique space in Vancouver. The video also offers a one-on-one informal interview that provides insight as to how she got started in fashion, the inspiration behind her Feastwear and Dorothy Grant lines (as well as her menswear and accessories options), and her hopes for the future of her fashion design business.

Unfortunately, I do not know how to embed this particular video, so I'm just sending the link, so click here for the Dorothy Grant on The New Canoe video.

Definitely check it out to see what all goes in to being a successful fashion designer!

Dorothy Grant will also be showing her latest garments at the Santa Fe Indian Market, Aug 19-22, 2010!

Designer Profile | Dorothy Grant

Dorothy Grant was born and raised in Hydaburg, Alaska. In 1983 she began sketching Haida art onto garments. As the idea developed, she was motivated by non-Native designers who incorporated Northwest Coast Native art symbols into their clothing collections. She felt it was a poor representation of a beautiful art form. In 1994, Grant opened her first retail store in Vancouver, called Dorothy Grant, Ltd. She stated, “For the past 20 years I have been researching Haida designs in my local communities, and transforming this knowledge into garments.” Grant’s strong connection to her cultural heritage and deepened sense of Haida identity is the creative force behind her Feastwear and Dorothy Grant labels. Her vision is to merge art with fashion to forge a link between ancient custom and modern society through the creation of timeless wearable art.

(Note: This is an excerpt from my dissertation and is copyrighted material)

(Dorothy Grant design. Image courtesy of the School for Advanced Research, where Grant was the 2007 Dobkin Fellow.)

(Dorothy Grant design. Image courtesy of the School for Advanced Research, where Grant was the 2007 Dobkin Fellow.)

For more information, visit Dorothy Grant's website here.

Event | Aboriginal Fashion Showcase at the 2010 Olympics

More history-making!

First Nations fashion designers will be presenting their garments during the 2010 Olympic Games in Vancouver - February 12th-16th.

The stellar lineup of top Aboriginal Fashion Designers representing from across Canada for the event includes: Dorothy Grant, Pamela Baker, Tammy Beauvais, Louie Gong, Cowichan Knitters, Nadine Spence, Tracey Toulouse, Kim Picard, and Angela DeMontigny (who also helped produce the event).

Aboriginal Fashion Showcase includes the following shows:

PREMIER DESIGNERS SHOWCASE
Angela DeMontigny, Dorothy Grant, Pam Baker
Sat, Feb.13 at 7:15pm

MEDIA RECEPTION
Sat, Feb.13 at 8:30pm - 10:30pm

4 MINI SHOWCASES
Kim Picard, Nadine Spence, Louie Gong, Pam Baker
Sun, Feb.14 at 3pm

4 MINI SHOWCASES
Tammy Beauvais, Tracy Toulouse, Angela DeMontigny, Dorothy Grant
Mon, Feb.15 at 3pm

ANGELA DEMONTIGNY AFTER PARTY
Mon, Feb.15 at 6pm

EMERGING DESIGNERS SHOWCASE
Kim Picard, Tammy Beauvais, Tracy Toulouse, Nadine Spence, Louie Gong, Cowichan Knitters
Tue, Feb.16 at 3pm

All shows will be held at Vancouver Community College (at 250 West Pender Street - at the intersection of Hamilton and Dunsmuir in downtown Vancouver, one block from the 2010 Aboriginal Pavilion). Aboriginal Fashion Showcase (AFS) will set stage at the Aboriginal Artisan Village and Business Showcase.

"The AFS will be a visually stunning production of emerging and established Aboriginal Fashion Designers and will exude glamour and excitement. Experience an electrifying event that audiences will be talking about long after the last model has walked the runway. Be prepared to expect the unexpected; unreserved contemporary fashion designs will amaze all who assume the usual. The AFS will feature three of Canada's top Aboriginal Designers: Pam Baker, Dorothy Grant and Angela DeMontigny, And five of Canada's emerging and most promising Aboriginal fashion designer talent: Kim Picard, Tammy Beauvais, Tracy Toulouse, Nadine Spence, Louie Gong, and Cowichan Knitters."

More information is available at http://www.ikanada.com/register

Video | Go Native Arts! Supports Native Fashion

Go Native Arts! is a new upcoming television series that will explore and celebrate Native arts and artists from throughout the Western Hemisphere.

Each episode will tell the 'family stories' of tribal artists, offering new information on the process of art-making from a contemporary Indigenous perspective.

Below are three videos recorded during the Go Native Arts! benefit party on August 17, 2009, at the Allan Houser Compound & Sculpture Park in Santa Fe. The videos feature new designs by Patricia Michaels (Taos Pueblo), Dorothy Grant (Haida), and Penny Singer (Navajo).